Yesterday was a very long day. Not in a bad way, just in a long way. Matt and I hopped on a 9:30 sheirut to Jerusalem. Our first stop was to pick up some goods for tonight’s party. We dropped it off at my old apartment, said hi to Joel’s whiny cats, and sped off. Our next stop was to a copy store to get some of Matt’s stuff laminated (you do NOT want to lose any important paperwork in this country, the bureaucracy is a bitch), where some French guy was clearly talking French smack about us. Damn frogs. We hopped on down Ben Yehuda Street and dropped in at the eyeglass store, which also doubles as a DMV eye-check station. I got my eye exam and the first piece of paperwork (shocking, paperwork) so that I can commence the process of converting my driver’s license (PS - I heart driving and totally miss it).
We then continued to Steve’s Pack, because this addiction is contagious and Matt infected his mother with the “Steve’s Bug”. In beige. It really is lovely. So we dropped some cash there, and promptly left. Otherwise Matt would have started fondling a variety of things, and really, who wants to see a grown man fondle bags? We paused at the Kippa Man, where Matt went into the narrowest store in existence, picked up two gorgeous kippot, and we continued to the Old City.
We moseyed on over to the Kotel. I realized, too late, of course, that I was wearing a tank-top. This is indecent dress for the House of G-d, and I was a little upset that I forgot to bring a shawl with me. Luckily, because it is summer, there is a fashion patrol of sorts, and they give shawls to those wearing shorts, miniskirts, tank-tops, tube-tops…you get the picture. One of the things that I love about Judaism is the way we all look out for each other. In many ways it’s the whole “village to raise a child” mentality, and it’s nice to know that there will always be someone who will watch your back. I approached the Wall, bent my head in prayer, and for the first time in a long time, I felt complete faith. I thanked the Big Guy for all he had given me, and for once had nothing to ask but that He protect the ones that have touched me, even if merely in passing.
After our prayer sesh, we headed to the Arab Market. It was perfect timing on our part - just as we started in the muezzin could be heard over the loudspeakers scattered all over the market - Allahu Akbar - it was so moving. We stopped first at the Holy Sepulchure to light a candle for one of Matt’s friends. It’s one of my favorite places in this country. I love religions.
We picked up a b-e-a-u-tiful bracelet for me, and a Fulla doll for Matt’s mom. This Fulla doll wears a hijab and sings in Arabic. It’s cute and a little haunting all at the same time. What’s actually slightly more disturbing is the fact that it appears that the doll was taken out of the box, dressed in Muslim-friendly attire, and repacked. I’m not sure how I feel about the doll. I’m all for cultures promoting what they believe is right and true, but I’m really not pro sexual segregation. It’s tricky, to reconcile tradition and modernism, and I’m not sure I’ve quite struck the balance for myself. I don’t know that I ever will.
Next was the trek to my parents’ apartment. There is one (1) bus that will get me from Jerusalem to my parents’ place, and that is the 177. I told Matt (who, due to the heat) misunderstood, and thought that was the best one, and not the only one. So, when the 171 showed up, and he said, “Is this one good?” I only half glanced (and, to be honest, with the way the sun hits the digital-ness, sometimes the 171 looks like 177 and vice-versa), and said, “Yes, yes, this is it.” We climbed on, and got moving. All of a sudden - i.e. fifteen minutes later - I realized we’re heading in the complete opposite direction. We get off in what seems to be the middle of nowhere, cross the street, and wait at what appears to be a bus stop. The stop at which we got off is right near a checkpoint, so, it turns out that this “bus stop” is actually where Arab detainees are held when pulled over by the (really hot) soldiers (who approached us, looked at us like we were SpEd, and informed us that, in fact, this was not a bus stop). We go to the actual bus stop, and wait for what seems to be an interminable amount of time. Then, under a halo of heavenly light, a bus emerges. Turns out, it was the “Superbus”, the actual name of the company. It’s a subset of public transportation that caters to the religious folks, where the men sit up front and the women sit in the back with all of the children. It’s very Jim Crow-esque. Of the three buses that passed us, only two stopped, and the (nonreligious) drivers were clearly hesitant to let a tattooed, pierced man and tank-top clad woman (who were clearly unmarried) board the bus. He knew what would be coming to him.
Luckily, a saint of a man picked us up and drove us back to Jerusalem. Although he was clearly very religious and I was dressed as a “whore”, he spoke to me as an equal, and never once asked if Matt and I were married. Although, if he did, it wouldn’t have been the first time we were asked. He pointed out everything as we passed, explained the neighborhoods to us, and then dropped us off with three sets of directions to get back to the bus station.
What should have been a 45 minute ordeal turned out to be a three hour excursion. At least we made it to my parents’. I can only imagine what would have happened had we got stranded where we got off the bus. And by imagine I mean we would have had to walk to Jerusalem.
What a day!